Recipe for making a substitute PBW beer equipment cleaner

There are many facets of beer making that are important:

The right hops.

The right temperature at which to brew.

The right yeast.

The right sized kettle.

The right whatever else you think is important.

But as any cook, painter, website designer or astronaut will tell you, preparation is the key to success and the father of successful brewing is making sure that your beer making equipment is clean!

We've previously recommended PBW as a literal solution to cleaning your brewing equipment as it is a proven cleaner and degreaser.

But as a branded home brewer product, Powdered Brewery Wash can cost you some real cash money. Many brewers swear by and believe in its value but if you are looking to get a substitute product at a cheaper price, there's a handy wee trick you may wish to try to make your own version of PBW.

What you are going to do is replicate the two main ingredients of PBW to make your own recipe.

We are looking to source these two active ingredients found in PBW.

• Sodium percarbonate 
• Sodium metasilicate

So where does one find these ingredients in home products?

The good news is that you might already have the percarbonate on a shelf in your laundry at home!

Many washing machine soaker's main ingredient is based the chemical we are after, sodium percarbonate.

Examples of the brands we are talking about are the household names such as Tide, Oxiclean, or Napisan.

For the metasilicate, we've found that many home DIY brewers use a cleaner called Red Devil TSP/90. You can find it on Amazon or local stores such as Walmart, Lowes or Home Depot. Sparklebright is also well known for containing TSP.

The TSP stands for tri-sodium phosphate. That chemical is not actually used much in America due to environmental concerns so the TSP/90 is actually a substitute product, hence the meta-silicate!

Confusing much?

So how to prepare this combo?

Now, mixing chemicals found in the kitchen or laundry can be dangerous but we are not using chlorine or ammonia here so we are on safe ground to mix our formula's ingredients.

The ratio to prepare is 70% Oxiclean with 30% TSP/90 - by weight. This ratio gives you your DIY version of PBW.

How much powder to use?

The concentration is 1 ounce per gallon of water which equates to 30 grams per 3.5 litres which is basically about 10 grams per litre.

Safety precautions

While Red Devil TSP/90 contains no phosphorous, lye or other abrasives and the laundry soaker is pretty benign, it is prudent to use protective gloves during use. This is because the chemicals are alkaline and contact with your skin is not recommended.

You can then use your cleaner in the usual manner to soak and scrub your fermenter and other brewing equipment. 

You can also wash beer gear with dish washing liquid to get gunk off first.

7 simple tips for the beginner beer brewer

7 handy tips for new beer brewers 

If you're sick of drinking 'dry white wine' at dinner parties and want to take the plunge and brew your first batch of home brew beer, good on you!

If you take the time to do it right, you will be rewarded with a refreshingly good beverage.

Are you with me?

A good start to your 'brewing campaign' will give you the confidence that brewing home brew is actually easy and you might continue with it as a hobby.

There's certainly a lot to learn, so if you are a first-time beer brewer, you might want to have a read of these tips and tricks.

1. That starter beer kit your wife gave you for Christmas is not enough

While the beer kit you were given for Christmas by your loving wife or partner will help you on your way to making a good homebrew beer, you can do better.

Kits that only come with a bag of sugar or dextrose alone will contribute to a beer that's weak in the sense that it will seem thin in terms of its 'mouth feel'.

Think of mouthfeel as that sense of 'full heartiness' that you get from that first mouthful of a well-deserved beer. In response to this need, the home brewer should consider adding more malt - either liquid or dry malt.

For the dry malt, a 'brew enhancer' pack is what you need.

In this writer's experience, making a homebrew beer kit without the enhancer most definitely results in a weaker feeling beer, so make sure your starter kit comes with it or at the least, head to your local brew shop and grab a packet.

It shouldn't cost more than ten bucks.

2. You'd do best to brew an ale than a lager

The truth is that the darker the beer, the more forgiving it will be in the home brewing process. It's very easy to make a brewing mistake with your first home brew so a beer style that's good to drink and is also easy to take care of is the brew you are after.

Basically, the heavier flavor of the beer will mask things such as 'off' bi-products of the fermentation process caused by things such as temperature mismanagement.

While you should feel free to start with a lager, and yes, many beer kits do come with lagers, bear in mind that lagers need to be cooled rather more quickly than an ale and they also require a bit more yeast in the fermentation process.

You can drink them sooner too!

We love brewing Nut Brown Ales for this reason!

3. In the cold cold, night

Fermentation is a process that requires just the right kind of temperatures and the right kind of times.

Different temperatures brew different kinds of beers.

A constant temperature is also very important as the yeast can react to a temperature variance in ways that are not good for tasty beer! So when doing your first brews, make sure it can be done in a warmish area and one that's going to keep that temperature.

A very rough guide is that you should aim to brew lagers between 10-14 degrees and get those ales done between 18-21 degrees.

You got that White Stripes reference right?

4. You don't need to bottle straight away, just because the fermentation bottle has stopped bubbling

If the bubbles in the airlock have stopped completely, this is not necessarily a sign that the fermentation process has completed. It's quite likely that there's still some fermentation quietly happening in the drum.

So let that play out a bit longer. It could be that you let your beer rest longer than the written instructions that came with your beer kit.

Give the yeast time to do its thing. Maybe you could add some hops.

If you are feeling brave, you could even consider cold crashing the beer just before you bottle. Basically, you just leave the drum in a fridge for a week when fermentation is complete.

Then bottle away.

5. But don't bottle too early!

Simply put, don't bottle too early.

This basically point four repeated.

If you bottle before fermentation has completed too early, you could be in for some trouble.

Did you ever see that Breaking Bad episode where Hank woke up in the night thinking he was being shot at but in reality, it was just his home brew exploding?

That's what happens if you bottle your beer too early, the primary fermentation continues, the CO2 pressure builds and then kaboom! Don't be like Hank, let your beer mellow in the fermenter just a bit longer.

Chances are it will taste better too!

6. Using a hydrometer will help you develop your home brewer's 'Sixth Sense' about how your brew is going.

A hydrometer, correctly used will help you to determine if your batch has finished fermenting. If you get the same reading twice in a row, the fermentation process has finished - but leave it just a little bit longer before you bottle.

Trust us on this one.

You can also use the hydrometer to work out the alcohol content of your beer.

7. Good things come to those who wait

Once you've managed to get your precious liquid gold into your well-sterilized bottles we can only imagine how keen you are to sample your efforts. You're going to have to wait.

The instructions in your beer kit may suggest you need to wait two or three weeks.

Believe them. Or not.

Let your beer have time to make those bubbles.

You will be rewarded with a better-tasting beer. If you can't wait, get yourself busy with a second brew and at the very least, give your equipment a good clean.

So that's plenty of things to think about. Once you've done that, get brewing!

When you've become a pro brewer, you can then start to think about ph meters and propane burners and the best conical fermenters!!

Beer image courtesy James Palinsad by way of Creative Commons licence. We have no idea if James prefers Star Trek or has even read Mortal Engines.

Faucet tap for pouring beer - selection guide

What’s the Best Tap for Pouring Beer from a Keg?

If you're going to make a kegerator, a jockey box, or a bar-ready keg system, you need a quality beer faucet. 

It is the business end of your draft system. 

A good faucet will not leak. 

The pour feels smooth and you get a clean head every time. You will also feel like a king when the hardware you installed yourself performs like it should.

What to look for in a faucet

• Standard 4 inch shank threading so it fits common tap handles
• Leak resistant design with reliable seals
• Durable build that tolerates cleaning chemicals and heavy use
• Food safe metals, chrome plated brass or stainless steel
• Consistent, smooth pouring action to reduce turbulence and foam

Prices range from basic steel models under fifteen dollars to premium chrome or stainless options around fifty five dollars. Cheap gear can corrode or stick which means you replace it sooner. 

Mid range or better is the smart buy for a kegerator you use often.

Top pick many brewers choose:

If you do not want to spend time comparing every spec, the faucet most often bought via this site is the Perlick 630SS tap.

Why the Perlick 630SS stands out

• Forward sealing design keeps beer out of the body of the faucet. That reduces sticking and bacterial growth. It also minimizes air contact, so the first pour of the day starts clean.
• Quick, precise handle action that is easy to modulate for slower or faster pours.
• Thoughtful spout angle helps beer clear the body which reduces drips after a pour.
• Easy disassembly for cleaning and passivation. Stainless components handle caustic and acid cycles well when used as directed.
• Common in commercial coffee and cold brew dispensers due to reliable performance and low maintenance needs.

Real world comments from brewers

Amazing faucet. Never gets stuck or clogged like others. I can keep the keg pressure significantly higher than my old faucet and still get a smooth pour. Highly recommended.

So far I have 2 Perlick 630SS taps and they both work flawlessly. If these keep working as they are then I will be enjoying these for years.

Great taps and a good price. They seal well and do not leak.

Check out the price on Amazon

A solid mid range option

If you want to spend less, consider the basic G Francis model. It is sturdy and does the job of tapping a keg well. Installation uses the familiar pull out, then down handle motion to couple the keg. 

The 4.9 inch length and 4.2 inch width make it easy to handle. Standard 4 inch shank threading fits most handles. 

The black knob twists off so you can swap in a custom handle.

Check out the price on Amazon.

For adding or removing faucets, a specially designed wrench helps you tighten to snug without overdoing it. Do not over tighten. Seal integrity comes from the shank seal and washers, not brute force.

Quick comparison

Model	Material	Seal style	Cleaning ease	Use case
Perlick 630SS	Stainless steel	Forward sealing	High	Premium home or pro feel
G Francis	Chrome plated brass	Conventional rear seal	Moderate	Budget friendly home setups

Installation basics for a smooth pour

1. Measure and drill a clean hole for the shank at the correct centerline height. Keep it level with the keg or slightly above to help with line balancing.
2. Assemble the shank with gaskets and the faucet collar. Tighten until snug. Do not crush gaskets.
3. Attach beer line to the shank tailpiece with a proper clamp. Use 3/16 inch ID line for most CO₂ beer service to add line resistance that tames foam.
4. Mount the faucet on the shank. Final tighten with a faucet wrench.
5. Balance the system. Start at 10 to 12 PSI for most ales at 2 to 4 °C with 5 to 6 feet of 3/16 inch line. Adjust by pour speed and foam until it feels right.

Care and cleaning

• Rinse the faucet after each session. Backflush with warm water. Weekly, circulate cleaner through the line and faucet, then rinse until neutral.
• Break down the faucet periodically. Soak parts per manufacturer guidance. Inspect seals and replace if worn.
• Do not leave sugar laden beer to dry inside the body. Forward sealing designs help, good cleaning habits finish the job.

Troubleshooting quick hits

• Sticking handle clean and lubricate food grade. Forward sealing faucets resist this, but residue can still build over time.
• Foamy pours beer is too warm, pressure too high for the line length, or turbulence at the faucet. Chill further, lengthen line, or lower pressure by a small step.
• Drips after pour check the spout angle and internals for wear. Perlick’s spout geometry reduces retained beer. Replace worn seals if needed.
• Metallic taste verify food safe materials and proper cleaning. Stainless is more inert than cheap plated parts.

The Perlick is a premium champ when it comes to faucets. It is a genuine quality product with a forward seat design that prevents the lever from sticking and a quick handle action that makes it easy to take apart and clean. The spout angle helps keep your homebrew from collecting inside which reduces the chance of beer drips. Many industrial players install these faucets on coffee dispensers due to their performance and low maintenance needs.

Here are the reviews again from brewers who installed these units after buying them on Amazon.

"Amazing faucet! Never gets stuck or clogged like others. I can keep the keg pressure significantly higher than my old faucet and still get a smooth pour. Highly recommended."

"So far I have 2 Perlick 630SS taps and they both work flawlessly. I have not tried any of the generic taps but went straight to these. If these keep working as they are then I will be enjoying these for years to come."

"Great taps, and a good price. They seal quite well, and don't leak at all"

Check out the price on Amazon

One more note on value

Cheap and cheerful is fine for dinner. For beer, go at least mid range. You will save money in the long run and every pour will remind you why you upgraded.

How to get all the malt out of the kit can

When I was a young lad at High School, it was mandatory to take a woodwork class.

It was simple stuff like make a pencil case, make a toolbox, turn a candle on a lathe.

The teacher was a 'dude' who wasn't like other teachers. He didn't care about pulling socks up or shirts tucked in.

What he did care about was cutting wood properly.

His mantra was that 'if you cut on the line of your measurement mark, you are changing the size or shape of your intended cut'. That is to say you saw next to your mark, not on it. 

I never forgot this and I randomly remembered it the other day when I was using a kit (a nice nut brown ale) and was trying to ensure I got all the malt out of the can. This was because the kits are designed to make a certain amount of beer and if you leave malt in the tin, you are changing the 'shape' of the recipe. But it can be a pain to get it all the malt out. It is thicker than chainsaw bar oil and takes some time to come out of the can.

So here's what I did to get all the malt out:



As you can see, I opened the tin with an opener but didn't completely cut it off. I then bent it up so I could rest it as pictured. I was quite happy with this little discovery!

I let it sit there for a few minutes and most of it goes into the fermentor. Then I add boiling water to the can and let that site for a short while. The water dissolves any residue and then I pour the rest into the fermenter.

If you'll note that glass on the window sill - that's the yeast soaking in water prior to pitching.