The Hach company says that it's Pro+ is engineered to deliver accurate results.
Features:
Backed up with built-in performance diagnostics, you never have to guess when to clean or calibrate the sensor.
You also get replaceable batteries for convenient field use, and a large, easy-to-read LCD screen.
Automatic Temperature Compensation
Instructions are found in the manual, which can be downloaded.
Pros
Cons
Accuracy and Precision
Cost
Offers high accuracy and precision, suitable for a variety of professional settings, ensuring users get reliable results.
It is priced higher than some entry-level models, making it potentially less appealing for casual users or those with limited budgets.
Durability
Complexity
Designed with a robust construction to withstand harsh environments, ideal for fieldwork and regular use in various conditions.
The features and functionalities might be complex for beginners or non-professionals who are not used to advanced testing equipment.
Replaceable Electrodes
Maintenance Needs
Electrodes can be replaced, extending the life of the device and making it a more sustainable option.
Regular maintenance and calibration are required to keep the device performing optimally, which might be a hassle for some users.
Waterproof
Size and Ergonomics
Waterproof casing allows for use in wet conditions and reduces the risk of damage from accidental immersion.
While portable, it might be slightly bulkier than other pocket testers, which could impact ease of use in tight spaces.
Connectivity Options
Battery Life
Features connectivity options for data transfer, enabling easier data management and analysis for professional use.
Uses batteries that need regular replacement, and may not support rechargeable options, adding to the operational costs.
All those specifications are nice and all, but what do brewers who have actually used and tested the Hach meters have to say?
"Hach makes pretty reliable products and the pocket Pro is no exception to that. It is easy to use and pretty hardy, we use them at work and they hold up well. This model does not have the replaceable tip, but they make one if needed. I use this meter at home as well for pool pH checks that are quick and easy. It only comes with a single buffer of 7, so you may want to get a 4 and 10 buffer, to allow a 3 point calibration."
"Works very well, I do recommend calibrating the unit soon as you get it and it will be correct"
When I was a lad, I lived in a place called 'the fruit bowl of New Zealand', that place being Hastings.
There were apples everywhere, in the orchards, on the farms, in your school lunch, on every corner.
Open the newspaper and four or five would fall out!
And never once did I think about making them into cider.
And now that I live miles away from the orchards of home, a good cider reminds me of years of apple picking and thinning and driving a hydra-ladder around an orchard to help pay for university fees.
But you came here to learn how to brew an alcoholic (hard) cider, so let's get on with it.
If you've brewed beer before, it's the same concept of fermentation but with some slight variations to the preparation of the basic ingredients and the addition of a few handy remedies to augment the cider's flavor.
If you think the first thing on the list of things you need is apples or pears, well, you'd be right.
But it's not that simple.
When brewing cider, not all apples are created equal.
Ideally, you'll have been able to harvest some late-season apples, maybe even some which have naturally fallen from the tree. This is because these apples have high amounts of sugar in them, and as any brewer knows, sugar is great for fermenting!
Having a mix of different kinds of apples is very useful for taste preferences as well.
Mixing Red Delicious with Granny Smith in a 1 to 2 ratio will produce a dry cider whereas 1 to 2 ratio of Macintosh to Cortland will produce a sweeter cider.
Another way to get the mix right is to use a mixture of 70% dessert apples and 30% cooking apples.
This should give a good balance of sweetness and acidic taste.
Preparation of apples for brewing
First up, wash your fruit of dirt, bird shit, leaves, and twigs, and the like. Cut away any rotten fruit as well. If your apples are a bit bruised, this is not a concern.
Your immediate goal is to turn your apples or pears into a pulp. Some players may use a scratter but chances are you're gonna have to do this the hard way by using a bit of elbow grease and pulp them into what's called a 'pomace'.
What you do is pulp the fruit in a large bucket by simply pounding it with a piece of clean wood in the form of a 4 x 4 post. Or the end of a baseball bat, or whatever's handy for pulping. Things will work out best if you quarter your apples or pears before starting this process.
You can always use a blender to speed the process along, but you are not trying to puree the fruit so go easy with the blender.
Bear in mind, that you're not trying to go all Charles Bronson on your apples.
Your mashed apples should have some substance to them, and they should certainly not be liquefied. If that's the case, you've over-pulped.
How many apples do I need to make cider?
A very rough rule of thumb is that 2kg of apples or pears can be turned into 1 litre of juice. If you are thinking in gallons, you'll need 20 pounds or just under 10 kg per gallon. So, if you want to fill your traditional 23 beer fermenter, do the maths and you'll find you need 46 kgs of apples.
Which is a lot of apples!
When crushing, be careful not to overdo it. The finished apples should have some substance to them, and liquid juice should not be present.
If it is, you have pulped them too much.
It's time to press your apples and extract the juice
Seasoned pros will venture that using an apple press will save a lot of time and efficiently produce a lot of juice.
Make sure your apple press is nice and clean. Make sure you have a clean bucket properly positioned to collect the apple juice.
Then load your quartered apples or pears into it.
As you turn the press, you will start to feel some real tension. Don't be tempted to keep going, this tiresome part requires a dedicated application of slowness and patience. Leave the press in this position for a couple of minutes and the juice will actually begin to flow.
Turn the press down onto the fruit until you feel some real tension. As soon as you do, don’t keep turning but leave this in position for a few minutes. You will see the juice will start to run. When the juice stops then tighten the press again and leave to repeat the process again until your apples are fully pressed.
Adding sodium metabisulphite to kill off wild yeast
Producers of cider know full well that a batch of juiced apples can easily succumb to acetobacter bacteria contamination which causes the classic turn-to-vinegar spoilage of the apples.
Acetobacter is easily killed off, hence treatment with an agent like a Campden tablet (sodium metabisulphite) is important in cider production.
Using approx one tablet per gallon will also see off any 'wild yeast' that might have traveled with your apples.
Experienced cider conjurers may also take the opportunity to add pectolase or peptic enzyme to the juice. Pectolase aids in the break down of pectin in the fruit giving you more juice and of great importance, this facilitates a better fermentation and a clearer cider as it helps reduce pectic haze. The amount of enzyme to add is approximately one teaspoon per gallon of juice.
It's also used in winemaking for the same reasons.
It's recommended that you give this new solution 48 hours before you pitch your yeast to commence fermentation. Given this time, you should cover your apple juice will a towel or some such item to prevent foreign particles from getting in. You may wish to give it a stir once in a while as well.
Actually, stir the heck out of the juice every 12 hours to make sure everything is coming into contact with the metabisulphite.
Having let your juice rest with the Campden tablets for at least 24 hours, you are now at a fork in the road somewhat. You can take your chances with any benign yeast taking their opportunity to ferment the juice or you can pitch a yeast that is well suited for brewing with apples or pears.
If you didn't already transfer the juice into your fermenter, now is the time to do so. Make damn well sure it is properly sanitized.
You might want to take a reading with a hydrometer to get the gravity of your juice so you can work out the ABV.
It's time to add the yeast but what kind should you add?
The classic, traditional yeasts to use are commonly referred to as Champagne yeast as they produce what is often described as neutral flavors but there are some great wine and beer yeasts out there to try as well.
Here are a few selections:
Specific yeasts for cider
Mangrove Jack’s Cider Yeast M02
Safcider from Fermentis
WLP775 English Cider Yeast from White Lab
Champagne yeasts for cider
Prise de Mousse, EC1118 from Lallemand. A popular choice for those who wish to have a high alcohol content (and you can encourage this by adding extra sugar to your cider batch).
Here's a demonstration video of how the professionals do it:
How long to leave the cider to ferment?
Fermentation should start within the week, or a few days if the temperature is ideal. You'll want to let your brew do its business for about two weeks AND then give it another to let the yeast begin to settle out of the solution to improve clarity.
You can get away with quicker times for brewing beer but apples and pears need this time if you want to make a quality brew.
What temperature do you ferment cider at?
As with beer making, sound temperature control will improve the odds you will have a good tasting beer. The extremes apply here - too cold and the yeast will hibernate and not ferment. Too hot and the yeast will be overworked and will produce fusel alcohols which will impair the taste of your cider.
The ideal temperature is considered to be about 15 degrees Centigrade or 59 Fahrenheit. Nudging to 20 is acceptable but anything over will produce unwanted side effects.
A steady temperature is also ideal. Too much fluctuation can through the yeast off its game. If you have a brewing fridge / fermentation chamber with a thermostat, your cider is ideal for a run in it.
When to add malic acid to cider brew?
Malic acid occurs naturally in apples and plays a part in the pH level of your cider and most crucially taste. If your pH level is too high, then adding extra malic acid will reduce the pH level (remember the lower the pH level, the more acidic a solution will be).
Conversely, if your pH level is too low, then you'll want to add a base such as precipitated chalk.
So then, your next question surely then is what is an ideal pH reading for cider? Many brewers aim for a range of 3.2 - 3.8. If you're nudging over four, you'll want to add malic acid as given it is already present, it matches the profile of the cider.
If you're interested in using a digital pH meter for checking the level of your cider, check out our pH tester buying guide.
Do I need to add tannins to my cider batch?
Tannin is a yellowish or brownish bitter-tasting organic substance that can be found in plant material such as tea, rhubarb, grapes and apples. Tannins are acids, a well known one being gallic acid. Tannins give an astringent, drying bitterness quality to cider.
Some kinds of apples have high tannin levels so the addition of them is not really necessary. Where brewers are using applies which naturally make a sweet cider, that brew may need some added tannins.
A ¼ teaspoon of tannin per gallon of cider is a commonly recommended amount to add. The exact amount can be a bit of a science, this dude has some great advice on how much to use.
Tannins can be sourced online from Amazon or from your local brew shop.
How long do I bottle condition cider for if I'm carbonating?
Cider takes a lot longer than beer to condition to an optimum drinkable state. It can take up to two months for carbonation to fully occur and even longer for the cider to reach peak performance. That said, some brews will be carbonated within 2 - 3 weeks.
It's very important to only bottle when you are sure fermentation is complete as if you cap those bottles before the yeast has done its job, you'll run the risk of bottles blowing up especially if you've added sugar to promote bottle carbonation.
A bottle explosion can send a big foamy mess everywhere and littering the place with sharp glass.
Trust me, I've made this mistake before and it's a massive pain to clean it all up and worse, it's a waste of time and energy and money!
If you want flat cider, without carbonation, you'll need to add an additive such as more Campden solution to prevent any residual yeast from fermenting in the bottle. Like when you were preparing the apple juice, leave the Campden to sit for a whole day before bottling to help ensure any yeast present is accounted for.
Remember to store your bottles in a cool spot, free from direct sunlight, especially if you used green bottles.
I should mention that before bottling should taste your brew as this is the time to 'back sweeten' if wish.
If you want to do this, you can add a non-fermentable sweetener such as stevia. This is in place of using extra sugar and it will mean you won't over carbonate.
Making cider from store bought Apple Juice
Making cider from store-bought apple juice is a very simple process as the hard work has been all done for you. Try and use a juice that doesn't have preservatives as theoretically this can hamper fermentation from commencing but don't overthink it.
[The short version is you just add yeast - kind of like making Pruno]
You might want to start with a gravity reading. If it is below 1050, then you may wish to consider adding a bit of sugar so the yeast has something to start working on.
The process of fermentation is the same so fill your clean and sanitized fermenter with the desired juice. Give it a bit of a shake to aerate and then pitch your yeast - maybe Lalvin EC-1118. You could also add some yeast nutrient as well.
Some brewers split the juice in half and once they are satisfied fermentation is occurring, they add the second half.
Seal your fermenter with an airlock and leave it be for 2 to 3 weeks at a minimum. When you feel your cider is ready for bottle conditioning, you can batch prime with dextrose in the normal manner.
You will want to condition your cider for a minimum of two months - cider brewers need to be more patient than beer brewers if they want a good tasting cider!
What is a Demijohn?
A demijohn (or jimmyjohn) is a particular kind of glass fermenter that is popular with cider and winemakers.
They come in all kinds of sizes from 5 litres through to 23. The smaller sizes allow for experimentation.
Their long necks can make them troublesome to clean.
A perfect kit for beginners, it makes fermenting hard cider at home simple and fun. The kit has enough ingredients to makes 3 batches of hard cider.
It includes 1 gallon reusable glass fermenter, 3 packets yeast, vinyl tubing & clamp, racking cane & tip, chambered airlock, 3 packets cleanser, and screw-cap stopper.
You'll need to supply your own apples or juice.
You'll be able to produce 3 batches of 7% ABV of hard cider (9-10 12-oz bottles). Brooklyn BrewShop describe that this kit will help you make a cider that is tart, bubbly and dry.
You may have heard that to lower the pH of your beer water, you can use calcium chloride, it works and works well but if you are looking to make a beer that would benefit from a bit of bitterness, gypsum might be the solution.
Gypsum's scientific name is calcium sulphate (CaSO4·2H2O) so you can see it's got something in common with chloride. Basically, it's another handy mineral beer salt (usually found in rock form but ground into a powder).
It does do a few things for your beer.
If you add it to your mash, it will help lower the pH.
A second effect is that the increased sulfate content will help to accentuate the bitterness of your beer. This is handy when using hops.
A handy trick is that if you desire to increase the sulfate level to produce a more bitter beer enhancement but don't want to alter or change your mash pH level, you can elect to place it directly into the kettle
.
How much gypsum should I add to my beer to reduce pH levels?
Generally speaking, you really only need to change the pH if your water needs some assistance.
Getting your source of water analyzed will allow you to make a real judgment about how much gypsum to add, but frankly who has time for that?
If you wish to increase the bitterness of the beer, you're going to use it anyway right? This is particularly the case if you need to harden the water as you wish to brew an ale or bitter.
Maybe that's a bit of a gung-ho attitude but whatever. That said, I did read an idea that pointed out that adding gypsum to water which has an unknown status is like adding salt to a meal you've never tried.
In terms of adding gypsum, a lot depends on how hard your water is. If your water is low in sulphate and you're making a beer such as an IPA then adding about 7-8 grams of gypsum to a 5-gallon batch is probably all you will need.
When to add gypsum in the brewing process?
Gypsum is typically added to the brewing water during the mashing process.
Specifically, it should be added to the water before the malt is added, and it should be fully dissolved before mashing in. This allows the gypsum to adjust the water chemistry and lower the pH level of the mash, which can improve the efficiency of enzyme activity and the extraction of sugars from the malt.
It is important to add the gypsum to the brewing water at the correct time, as adding it too late in the process can result in a harsh, minerally flavor in the beer.
How is gypsum used for hoppy beers?
Gypsum acts to suppress harshness and astringent flavours.
Gypsum is often added to hoppy beers to add a perceived dryness and enhance the hop bitterness. The sulfate ions in gypsum can enhance the perception of hop bitterness by adding a sharp, clean and almost puckering taste, while the calcium ions can help to clarify and stabilize the beer, and contribute to a dry finish.
Additionally, Gypsum can also help to balance the pH of the mash, which is important for enzyme activity and the extraction of sugars from the malt.
Brewers can take advantage of this to use large amounts of hops without contradicting or causing disharmony with other components of the hop.
Don't push it though, too much calcium carbonate will lay this balancing act to waste.
What is the 'Burton Snatch'?
If you're brewing wort or water features too much sulphate, you will get that rotten eggs smell which is sometimes known as the Burton Snatch.
This is why it is important you don't add too much gypsum to your brew. To be clear, in the case of using sulphate, this is the cause of the sulphur smell you may get a whiff of and not the smell of an infected beer.
The name 'Burton Snatch' comes from the history of beers brewed at the place of Burton-on-Trent, England. The water of that area was naturally high in sulphate and when used for a brew or two, excess sulphite would cause the whiff when beer was poured.
The snatch smell, if we can call it that, is now infamously tied to beers brewed using the region's water supply
Do I need to use gypsum if I am using malt extract kits?
You probably do not need to add gypsum if you're using a malt kit.
Given kits are designed to be the wort you need to make the beer you want to make, it seems unlikely given modern manufacturing standards that it should be necessary to add gypsum.
How to use lactic acid to reduce the pH level of your home brew beer
If your beer's pH level is too high, you may want to use lactic acid to reduce the level.
This is especially helpful when making 'high malt' beers or if your water source is alkaline.
Also known as hydroxypropanoic acid, lactic acid is primarily found in sour milk products, such as koumiss, leban, yoghurt, kefir, and some cottage cheeses. Not blue cheese though.
When making beer, a sour taste is often not desirable, yet when seeking a sour beer flavor, using lactic acid is a great way to achieve the effect.
Adding lactic acid to the mash or sparge to reduce pH
Once you have mashed in and it has settled for a bit, it's time to take a pH reading with your trusty meter. If the result is too high, then it is time to add the acid.
The effect of the acid to reduce tannins in the beer.
How much lactic acid to add?
It's not a straightforward exercise. The grain bill can have an effect on your starting point. You can't simply add 1 ml per gallon and be done because you need to know at what level your pH is so you can bring it down to the desired rate (5.2. - 5.6 generally speaking)
I've seen people use 1.5 ml to 2 per gallon and have good results.
There are some calculators out there which offer guidance, the Bru'n Water guide is a popular choice.
If you guess and use too much, you will definitely make your beer taste sour.
The key point around the amount to use is you need to have very accurate readings so use a quality pH meter.
What about lactic acid for sour beers?
This is a different use of lactic acid where you are using it to influence the taste of your beer rather than reducing the pH.
You can add lactic acid after primary fermentation to make your beer taste sour.
If you are looking to make a more traditional 'sour beer' then the role of Lactobacillus bacteria in making sour beer comes into play.
Lactobacillus is part of a family of bacteria called "Lactic Acid Bacteria". The bacteria produce lactic acid as a byproduct of eating things from their environment.
So, if you are a whizz in the brewery, you can use the bacteria to produce lactic acid to sour your beer.
Practitioners of this method sometimes actually 'pre-acidify' the wort with lactic acid to help ensure a suitable environment in which the bacteria and then go to town.
Using phosphoric acid instead of lactic to reduce pH levels in beer
There's a bit of chat on the forums about the difference between the two.
Phosphoric is more arguably reactive and will drop the pH level quicker than lactic.
If you cut through it, they do the same job and neither of them appears to be discernable in the final product - this testing experiment seems to confirm that.
Did you ever see that episode of Knight Rider when K.I.T.T. was placed in an acid bath and he left it as shell of a car?
Yeah?
Well, don't use that acid when making wine, perhaps use malic acid instead.
Malic acid is an acid that is found in fruit and quite commonly in grapes and apples. Have you ever had a Granny Smith apple and found it to be quite sour?
That's the malic acid at work. It's quite similar to citric acid in that sense.
As such it's used in all kinds of foods to give that tart flavor. Ever tasted 'Salt and Vinegar' chips?
That's not just vinegar you're tasting...
So why would one use malic acid when brewing wine?
It's a very handy compound for reducing the pH level of wine.
All good brewers know that both beer, cider, and wine need to be within certain pH level otherwise, the tasting experience will be horrible. The acidity works to counter the sweetness and bitter components of the wine such as tannins.
A wine that features too much acidity will taste extremely sour and sharp and produce a physical response from the mouth and tongue. A wine with not enough acid present will taste somewhat flabby and flat and its intended flavor will hard to discern.
A word to the wise. If your wine is going to undergo malolactic fermentation (such as red or sparkling) do not add extra malic acid as this will convert to lactic acid.
Which wines suit the addition of malic acid?
Most reds
Rieslings
Gewurztraminer
Muscat
When do I add acid to the wine?
Malic or tartaric acids may be added either before or after primary fermentation.
They can also be added during any blending or aging periods, but the increased acidity will become more noticeable to the drinker.
How much malic to add to the must?
It's a general rule of thumb that 3.4 grams per gallon will adjust the acidity by +.1%.
It will lower pH less than tartaric acid will which is why some wine makers prefer to use that acid.
Malolactic fermentation or conversion is the chemical process in winemaking where the malic acid that is naturally present in grapes, is converted to lactic acid.
Fermentation is caused by a family of bacteria known as lactic acid bacteria.
Malolactic fermentation usually occurs as a secondary fermentation shortly after the end of the primary fermentation. The process is usually undertaken for the vast majority of red wines produced. Some white varieties such as Chardonnay use it as a byproduct of the reaction is a diacetyl which imparts the 'buttery' flavor associated with Chardonnay.
By adding salt chlorides to your beer, you not only reduce the pH level but have the benefit of the chloride ions working to promote the sweetness, or mellowness of the beer's taste profile.
Charlie Sheen would call that #winning.
Using calcium chloride has a variety of benefits for beer production
improve yeast metabolism growth and flocculation (great for clear beer)
accelerate oxalate removal
also used in cheese making as a firming agent
can be used to pickle vegetables!
How much calcium chloride do I add to my water?
General instructions are usually to use one teaspoon per 23 litres / 5 gallons (or as required). It will dissolve best in cold water, especially if it's stirred or shaken quite vigorously.
When you think it's properly dissolved, check with a ph meter to ensure the level is as you desire.
I recently discovered that you can also use calcium chloride to help make pickles! Have you ever heard of Ball's Pickle Crisp? It's a popular product for when pickling dill pickles - it leaves them firm and hard which improves the eating experience.
You've probably figured out by now that the secret ingredient of pickle crisp is that it is one hundred per cent made of calcium chloride flakes. So if you want to save yourself a bit of money from the brand name product, grab a no-frills bag which will cost you less and get you more.
At The Astromech, you can expect to find a variety of articles, reviews, and analysis related to science fiction, including books, movies, TV, and games. From exploring the latest news and theories to discussing the classics, I aim to provide entertaining and informative content for all fans of the genre.
Whether you are a die-hard Star Trek fan or simply curious about the world of science fiction, The Astromech has something for everyone. So, sit back, relax, and join me on this journey through the stars!
, lactic acid is primarily found in sour milk products, such as koumiss, leban, yoghurt, kefir, and some cottage cheeses. Not 
(which can also be used as a 
