How to pitch yeast correctly into beer wort


How to pitch yeast into homebrew beer

Newbie beer makers may have heard the expression “pitch your yeast” and wondered what the heck it meant.

I myself was horribly concerned that I had missed a trick when making my first brew after learning this phrase.

Had I missed out on a step?

Had I ruined my beer?

Nope, of course not (but there are ways to do that).

Pitching yeast’ is just homebrewer lingo for adding yeast to the wort.

It's called pitching because you throw it, kinda like a baseball pitcher...

Without yeast, your wort will not turn into beer.

The yeast is an active living organism that feeds on the oxygen and sugars in the wort and as a bi-product produces carbon dioxide and the sought-after alcohol.

Yeast is a sensitive cell-based life form and needs the correct conditions in which to thrive and help make really good beer.

That’s why pitching your yeast is more than simply adding it to your beer, it needs to be done at the correct time in the brew so that it can 'activate' properly.

And it's not just for beer, it's cider and mead and seltzer too!

What temperature to pitch yeast into the beer wort?

Yeast is alive.

Treat it like a living ingredient, not a powder you dump in and forget.

Pitch too hot and you can literally cook the cells, fermentation may stall or never start.

Pitch too cold and the yeast can sit there sluggish and confused, which delays fermentation and opens the door to off flavors.


The most common beginner mistake is pitching straight after the boil.

If you have just boiled the wort, whether you were sanitising, dissolving extract, or adding hops, the wort is far too hot for yeast.

Cool it first, and do it properly.

This is why the cooling process can be so important.


The solution is not guesswork.

You measure the wort temperature, then pitch when you are in range.

Your fermenter might have a temperature gauge

If it does not, you might need to get your hands on a thermometer.

Useful Temperature ranges for yeast

Ale yeast: commonly ferments best around 68 to 72 °F (20 to 22 °C).

Lager yeast: commonly ferments best around 45 to 55 °F (7 to 13 °C).


These are general ranges, not laws of physics.

Each yeast strain has its own comfort zone, and that zone affects flavor.

Ferment warmer and you can push esters and fruitiness.

Ferment cooler and you can get a cleaner, crisper profile, assuming the yeast is still active enough to finish the job.

If you are using a beer kit, the ideal temperature should be written on the can or pouch.

Trust what the manufacturer brewer says, they built the kit recipe around that yeast behaving in that range.

I’ve noticed that some brewers can be super 'sensitive' about yeast and the preparation and pitching of it.

There are arguments about the best method but the casual homebrewer should not get caught up too much in it.

If you follow some good beer making instructions, you shouldn’t have any problems with the yeast.

A key tip to remember is that if you do ferment outside of the intended yeast range, your beer will have different qualities than you may be expecting, and by this we mean your beer will probably not taste like you intended.

The easiest way to pitch your yeast is by 'dry pitching'

If you are like me, once you have prepared the wort in your 30 litre fermenting drum and it is at the ideal temperature, you are ready to add your dried yeast.

The easy way is to simply open up the packet that came from the beer kit, and drop it into your wort.

I like to cut the packet open so that the yeast cells can efficiently exit the packet.

I also like to give it a shake to pack the yeast on one side and cut it on that side.

When you do this, you are pitching your yeast 'dry'.

Maybe give it a gentle stir with a clean spoon.

Close off your fermenter securely and place your beer in a good spot for a week or two to let the yeast do its job.

Put some blankets around it.

Maybe use a heat pad, especially during winter months.

If you want to give the yeast the best chance to do their job really well:

Idea: Re-hydrate your yeast in water before you pitch it

Rehydrating yeast in a glass

A handy method that many earnest brewers follow is to hydrate the dry yeast in water before pitching.

The reasoning behind this is that it gives the yeast a good chance to get started properly.

The theory is that there can be a concentration of sugars in the wort which means it is difficult for the yeast to absorb water into its membranes so that they can begin to activate/metabolize and thus commence the fermentation process.

Based on that, I imagine that, if you have made a high gravity wort that's full of sugar and fermentables for the yeast to eat, hydration is a good step to take.

In my experience, I’ve never had the yeast fail with a simple beer kit but if you are keen to cut the potential problem out, feel free to re-hydrate your yeast.

Do this by boiling some water and letting it cool.

You can then add your yeast packet (or two!) to the water and let it begin to absorb, you shouldn’t do this too far apart from when it is time to pitch the yeast.


Cover and leave for about 15 minutes and then inspect.

It should have begun to smell like you are making bread and 'bubbled' a bit (see the above picture).

If so, it’s ready to be pitched.

Once you've added the yeast to the wort, there will likely be some left in the glass, I have a 'waste not want not' kind of view so I add some water to the glass, give it a swirl and add it to the yeast as well.

If there is no churning or foaming or sourdough or bread like smells, it could be your yeast has died from old age or environmental damage such as being left in the sun.

You may need to use a new packet of yeast...

How many packets of yeast should I use?

Generally speaking, brewers will use one packet of yeast however, if you are trying to make a very high-alcohol beer where the yeast is expected to do a lot of work, you might want to consider using two packets


This works well when brewing with two kit cans.

You may want to use two packets if your yeast is fairly old, as the older it is, the less potency the yeast will have, as the yeast cells will have slowly died off over time.

The 'denser' or thicker your wort, the more yeast you will need.

There's also a difference when making an ale or lager.

Yeast becomes slow to ferment when it’s cold.

Given lager ferments at a much lower temperature than ale, it's reasonable then to use more yeast with the lager to finish the job properly.

Some brewers use the rule of thumb to pitch about twice as much yeast for a lager as for an ale.

Using liquid yeast for brewing

If you intend to use a liquid yeast it should really be pitched to a starter wort before THEN pitching to the main wort in the fermenter.

Here's a handy guide to making the starter from one of the true beer making industry legends, John Palmer.

That said, many liquid yeasts can simply be pitched as normal so check the instructions that come with your unit. We reckon manufacturers know a thing or two about their own products so it's always sensible to follow their use guidance.

What are some good yeasts to brew with?

If you do not want to use the yeast that comes with your kit, you are not being fussy.

You are making the single easiest upgrade you can make to the final taste of your beer.

Yeast is not just “the thing that makes alcohol.”

It shapes the finish, the mouthfeel, the clarity, and the way hop and malt flavors land on your palate.


Two reliable ale workhorses:

Safale -05

This is the “just make it good” yeast.

It ferments clean, stays out of the way, and lets your malt and hops speak clearly.

It is also forgiving, which is why so many brewers reach for it when they want a dependable result without drama.

If you are aiming for pale ales, IPAs, American ambers, or any kit you want to taste fresher and tighter, this is a safe bet.

Why it works: clean fermentation profile and strong reliability, which means fewer weird surprises in the glass.

Safale - 04

This is a handy English ale yeast when you want more character.

It can add a gentle fruitiness and a rounder “pub ale” feel, and it often drops clear more readily than some cleaner American strains.

If you are brewing bitters, porters, stouts, brown ales, or you want a kit to feel warmer and more traditional, it earns its keep.

Why it works: adds subtle English-style personality and often flocculates well, which can help clarity and presentation.

Quick decision rule:

If you want the beer to taste crisp and hop-forward, choose Safale -05.

If you want the beer to taste fuller and a little more “English,” choose Safale - 04.

Selecting the right yeast strain is critical for hitting your target flavor profile.

Here are some of the most popular and reliable workhorses in the brewing world.

W-34/70 (Saflager W-34/70)

Origin: The legendary Weihenstephan strain from Germany.

Arguably the most popular lager yeast in the world.

Profile: Exceptionally clean, crisp, and malty.

Allows malt and hop character to shine through with a neutral flavor profile.

Best For: Everything.

German Pilsners, Helles, Bocks.

This is the ultimate all-rounder.

S-23

Origin: VLB-Berlin.

A popular choice for West European style lagers.

Profile: Produces slightly more fruity esters than W-34/70, especially when fermented at the higher end of its range.

Finishes very dry.

Best For: Fruity lagers, Dortmunder Export, and American-style Pilsners.

S-189

Origin: Hürlimann brewery in Switzerland.

Profile: A very neutral fermenter that enhances maltiness and body.

Low sulfur production.

Best For: Traditional European lagers where a rich, malty character is desired, like Bocks and Dunkels.

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Quick Summary

A quick summary of pitching yeast

  • Pitching yeast means adding yeast to the beer wort so fermentation can begin, and wort can become beer.
  • Temperature is the make or break variable: pitch at the recommended range for your yeast.

    If you are brewing a kit, check the can or instructions and follow the brewer’s guidance.
  • Dry pitching is the simplest method: sprinkle dried yeast straight onto the wort once it is at the correct temperature.
  • Rehydration is optional, but useful in some cases: you can hydrate yeast in water just before pitching to help it wake up, especially for high gravity brews or older packets.
  • Dry yeast is generally easier to store and more forgiving: it usually has a longer storage life than liquid yeast.
  • Liquid yeast needs refrigeration: treat it like fresh food, keep it cold, and follow the manufacturer’s handling advice.
  • Older yeast often means lower viability: the older the yeast, the more you may need to use, or you may need a starter if you are going the liquid route.
  • Yes, you can get creative: you can even use baker's yeast to pitch into your beer, though it will ferment differently and can shift flavor and aroma outcomes.
Extra for experts: should you use a ph Meter? What about using sugar drops for carbonation? - also beer makes are usually lawn mowers too - do you have the right oil for your grass cutter?

Image credit to Justin Knabb via Creative Commons Licence
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