Brew-sful Tips: Improve Your Beer Brewing Skills!

Even if you're not a beer expert, there's always room for improvement in your brewing skills. Just like Han Solo, who constantly sought to better his craft, here are some valuable tips to enhance your beer-making process.

 1. Bottling Over the Dishwasher Door: When bottling your beer, consider setting up your operation over the open dishwasher door. This way, if any spills or drips occur during the process, they can be easily cleaned up by simply closing the door. It saves you the hassle of having to mop up the mess separately.

2. Cleaning the 'Boil in a Bag' Brew Bag: After using a 'Boil in a Bag' brew bag, cleaning it properly ensures its longevity and prevents any unwanted flavors from transferring to future batches. Start by shaking the bag out to remove any loose debris. Then, turn it inside out and hold it under the shower or a faucet to thoroughly rinse off any remaining residue. This ensures that your bag is clean and ready for the next brew.

3. Pouring Extract from a Bowl: When working with dry malt extract (DME), transferring it from the bag to the boiling water can be a bit challenging. To make the process easier, pour the contents of the bag into a bowl first and then use the bowl to pour the extract into the boiling water. This way, you can scrape out every last bit of the extract from the bowl, ensuring maximum utilization of your ingredients.

4. Importance of Fresh Ingredients: The quality of your homebrewed beer greatly depends on the freshness of the ingredients you use. Just like in cooking, using fresh and high-quality ingredients will result in a better end product. Therefore, strive to source fresh malts, hops, and yeast to ensure that your beer reaches its full potential in terms of flavor, aroma, and overall quality.

5. Handling Dry Malt Extract (DME): Dry malt extract has a tendency to cake onto the sides of the bag when exposed to steam from boiling water. This can make it difficult to measure and utilize fully. To overcome this issue, consider adding the DME to the brew kettle before adding the boiling water. This way, the steam will not cause excessive caking, and you can extract the full amount of DME without any wastage.

6. Re-hydrating Dry Yeast: If you have saved dry yeast for future use, re-hydrating it properly is crucial to ensure its viability and effectiveness in fermentation. One effective method is to pour the dry yeast into a plastic bottle filled with water at the correct temperature. Cap the bottle and shake it gently to mix the yeast with the water. Open the bottle slightly to release any excess gas (similar to burping a soda bottle). When it's time to pitch the yeast, pour it out of the bottle directly into your wort, allowing for a smooth and efficient fermentation process.

7. Silica Gel in Hydrometer Case: While some brewers find it unnecessary, placing a packet of silica gel in your hydrometer case can help absorb any residual moisture that might be present after using the hydrometer. This extra precaution ensures that the hydrometer remains in optimal condition and provides accurate readings for future measurements.

8. pH Meter for Mash Testing: Monitoring the pH level during the mashing process can significantly impact the quality of your beer. Using a pH meter to test the mash allows you to adjust the acidity and alkalinity levels as needed, ensuring optimal enzyme activity and flavor development. Aim for a pH range that is suitable for the style of beer you are brewing, as different styles have different ideal pH ranges.

9. Selecting the Right Hops: Hops play a crucial role in the flavor and aroma profile of your beer. To achieve the best results, it's essential to choose hops that complement the specific style of beer you are brewing. Research the different hop varieties and their characteristics to find the ones that align with your desired flavor profile. Experimenting with different hop combinations can lead to exciting and unique brews.

10. Lager Hops for Matching Styles: When brewing lagers, certain hop varieties are known to work exceptionally well. Saaz hops, traditionally associated with lagers, impart a delicate and spicy aroma, while the classic German hop, Hallertauer, adds a mild and floral character. Additionally, exploring hops like the New Zealand-derived Green Bullet can provide interesting flavor dimensions to lagers.

What does an Alien brew taste like?

11. Boiling Malt Extract Kits: Contrary to popular belief, boiling malt extract kits can actually enhance the quality of your beer. Boiling the malt extract ensures sterilization and eliminates any unwanted microorganisms. Moreover, it allows you to precisely control hop timings and achieve the desired bitterness and flavor extraction from the hops.

12. Yeast Starter Management: When making a yeast starter, it's crucial to take precautions to contain any potential overflow. Placing the flask inside a plastic grocery bag before putting it on a stir plate provides an additional layer of protection. In the event of an overflow, the mess will be contained within the plastic bag, preventing any contamination and making cleanup easier.

13. Proper Sugar Amount in Bottles: Avoid the temptation to add excessive amounts of sugar when priming your beer for carbonation in bottles. Over-carbonation can lead to gushers or even exploding bottles. Follow a reliable priming sugar calculator to determine the correct amount of sugar needed based on the beer style and desired carbonation level.

14. Slanted Yeast Cake: Creating a slanted yeast cake in your fermenter can be advantageous when it comes time to rack the beer. By placing a book or wedge under the back of the fermenter after sealing it, you can create a slanted surface where the yeast settles. This allows for clearer beer transfer from the front side of the fermenter, reducing the risk of disturbing the sediment.

15. Calculating Alcohol Content with a Hydrometer: A hydrometer can be a useful tool for determining the alcohol content of your beer. By measuring the specific gravity (SG) before and after fermentation, you can calculate the alcohol by volume (ABV) using a simple formula. This information helps you track and adjust the strength of your beer in subsequent brews.

16. Carbonation Drops Quantity: When using carbonation drops for bottle conditioning, a general rule of thumb is to use around 60 carbonation drops for a 23-liter brew. However, it's always best to refer to the specific instructions provided by the manufacturer of your chosen carbonation drops, as quantities may vary.

17. Preventing Boil Overs: Boil overs can create a messy and time-consuming cleanup process. To minimize the risk, consider adding a few marbles, glass beads, or large stainless steel ball bearings to your boil kettle. These objects act as nucleation points at the bottom, allowing large bubbles to rise and pop, thus reducing foam formation. Alternatively, using a foam inhibitor such as Fermcap-S can also help prevent boil overs effectively.

18. Rapid Wort Cooling: Cooling your wort quickly after boiling is important to encourage the precipitation of unwanted proteins and tannins, which can negatively affect the flavor and clarity of your beer. Utilize a wort chiller or an ice bath to rapidly cool the wort to the desired temperature before pitching the yeast.

19. Spray Bottle for Sanitizing: Simplify the sanitizing process by using a spray bottle filled with a Star San solution. Instead of dunking everything in a bucket of sanitizer, you can spray the surfaces liberally, ensuring good coverage and saving time. This method is particularly useful for smaller items and hard-to-reach areas.

20. Spigots in Fermenting Buckets: Installing spigots in your fermenting buckets can streamline the beer transfer process. With a spigot, you can attach an auto siphon directly to the bucket, eliminating the need for manual siphoning and reducing the risk of contamination.

21. Harvesting Yeast Slurry: When transferring beer from a fermenter to a keg, consider collecting a portion of the yeast slurry in pint mason jars. Refrigerate these jars for future use as yeast starters in subsequent brews. This technique helps save money on yeast purchases and ensures consistent fermentation performance.

22. Sodium Percarbonate for Sanitization: Sodium percarbonate, a powdered compound, is a preferred method for sanitizing brewing equipment. It effectively eliminates bacteria and unwanted microorganisms without leaving residue. Its no-rinse nature simplifies the sanitization process, and it can be conveniently ordered in bulk online.

23. Hops Tea for Flavor Extraction: To ensure optimal extraction of hop flavors, consider making a "hops tea" before adding them to your beer. Simmer a small amount of hops in water for a short period, then strain the liquid and incorporate it into your brew. This technique can enhance the hop character and provide a more pronounced aroma in the finished beer.

24. Bulk Purchase of Hops: If you brew beer frequently or enjoy experimenting with different hop varieties, buying hops in bulk can be a cost-effective option. However, ensure that you have proper storage facilities to maintain the freshness and quality of the hops. Freezing excess hops can help prolong their shelf life and preserve their aroma and bitterness.

25. Patience in Bottling: Don't rush to start the bottling process. Bottling your beer too early can result in undercarbonated or off-flavored beer. Ensure that fermentation is complete and the desired final gravity is reached before proceeding with bottling. Keep the beer in a warm and stable environment during fermentation to encourage proper carbonation.

26. Two Approaches to Adding Sugar: When priming your beer for bottle carbonation, you have two methods to consider. The first method involves priming the entire batch by adding the liquid sugar directly to the fermenter before bottling. The second method involves adding sugar to each bottle individually using a measured amount. Choose the approach that best suits your preference and brewing setup.

27. Creamy Mouthfeel with Unfermentables: If you desire a creamy mouthfeel in your beer, consider incorporating more "unfermentable" sugars by adding additional malt to your recipe. These sugars contribute to a thicker and more viscous texture, resulting in a beer that feels fuller and richer in your mouth.

28. Dishwasher Cleaning for Bottles: Instead of hand cleaning and sanitizing each bottle individually, you can use your dishwasher to streamline the process. Place your empty bottles in the dishwasher's bottom rack without using any detergent. Run the dishwasher on the hottest cycle, ensuring that the high temperature effectively sanitizes the bottles, removes labels, and eliminates any potential contaminants.

29. Increasing ABV with Extra Fermentables: If you want to boost the alcohol content (ABV) of your beer, consider adding extra fermentables to your recipe. Dry malt extract (DME) is a common choice, as it easily dissolves in wort and provides additional sugars for the yeast to convert into alcohol. Adjust the amount of extra fermentables based on your target ABV.

30. Thorough Cleansing and Sterilization: When it comes to brewing, cleanliness and sterilization are vital. Ensure that all equipment, including fermenters, airlocks, tubing, and utensils, undergo thorough cleaning and sanitization before use. Use a dedicated cleansing and sterilizing agent provided in your brewing kit to eliminate any potential contaminants and maintain the integrity of your beer.

31. Extended Aging for Lager Character: If you're brewing lagers, allow your beer to sit for an extended period at cooler temperatures after primary fermentation. This process, known as lagering, allows the flavors to mellow and the beer to clarify, resulting in a smoother and more refined taste. Patience is key when brewing lagers, as the additional aging time contributes significantly to their character.

32. Avoiding Oxygen Exposure: Oxygen exposure can lead to off-flavors and premature staling of your beer. Minimize oxygen contact by utilizing techniques such as closed transfers, purging vessels with CO2 before filling, and using oxygen-absorbing caps or corks for bottle sealing. A well-maintained fermentation environment and proper packaging methods contribute to the longevity and quality of your beer.

Remember, brewing beer is a creative process, and experimentation is encouraged. Take these tips as guidelines and adapt them to your specific brewing setup, style preferences, and desired outcomes. Happy brewing!

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How to pitch yeast correctly into beer wort

How to pitch yeast into homebrew beer

Newbie beer makers may have heard the expression “pitch your yeast” and wondered what the heck it meant.

I myself was horribly concerned that I had missed a trick when making my first brew after learning this phrase.

Had I missed out on a step?

Had I ruined my beer?

Nope, of course not (but there are ways to do that).

‘Pitching yeast’ is just homebrewer lingo for adding yeast to the wort. It's called pitching because you throw it, kinda like a baseball pitcher...

Without yeast, your wort will not turn into beer. The yeast is an active living organism that feeds on the oxygen and sugars in the wort and as a bi-product produces carbon dioxide and the sought-after alcohol.

Yeast is a sensitive cell-based life form and needs the correct conditions in which to thrive and help make really good beer.

That’s why pitching your yeast is more than simply adding it to your beer – it needs to be done at the correct time in the brew so that it can 'activate' properly. And it's not just for beer, it's cider and mead and seltzer too!

What temperature to pitch yeast into the beer wort?

The short version is if you pitch your yeast when your brew is too hot (say you’ve just boiled it), you will kill the yeast with the heat and fermentation will not occur. Which would be a waste of time and money.

This is why the cooling process can be so important.

That said, pitching yeast too cold means the yeast won't start its job.

Your fermenter might have a temperature gauge on the side, else you might need to get your hands on a thermometer.

Ale fermentation temperatures commonly range from 68 to 72 °F (20 to 22 °C) Lager fermentation temperatures will range from 45 to 55 °F (7 to 13 °C).

If you are using a beer kit, the ideal temperature should be written on the can or pouch - trust what the manufacturer brewer says!

I’ve noticed that some brewers can be super sensitive about yeast and the preparation and pitching of it. There are arguments about the best method but the casual homebrewer should not get caught up too much in it.

If you follow some good beer making instructions, you shouldn’t have any problems with the yeast.

A key tip to remember is that if you do ferment outside of the intended yeast range, your beer will have different qualities than you may be expecting - and by this we mean your beer will probably not taste like you intended.

The easiest way to pitch your yeast is by 'dry pitching'

If you are like me, once you have prepared the wort in your  30 litre fermenting drum and it is at the ideal temperature, you are ready to add your dried yeast. The easy way is to simply open up the packet that came from the beer kit, and drop it into your wort. I like to cut the packet open so that the yeast cells and efficiently exit the packet.

I also like to give it a shake to pack the yeast on one side and cut it on that side.

When you do this, you are pitching your yeast 'dry'.

Maybe give it a gentle stir with a clean spoon. Close off your fermenter securely and place your beer in a good spot for a week or two to let the yeast do its job. Put some blankets around it. Maybe use a heat pad, especially during winter months.

If you want to give the yeast the best chance to do their job really well:

Re-hydrate your yeast before you pitch it

A handy method that many earnest brewers follow is to hydrate the dry yeast in water before pitching. The reasoning behind this is that it gives the yeast a good chance to get started properly.

Rehydrating yeast in a glass

The theory is that there can be a concentration of sugars in the wort which means it is difficult for the yeast to absorb water into its membranes so that they can begin to activate/metabolize and thus commence the fermentation process.

Based on that, I imagine that if you have made a high gravity wort that's full of sugar and fermentables for the yeast to eat, hydration is a good step to take.

In my experience, I’ve never had the yeast fail with a simple beer kit but if you are keen to cut the potential problem out, feel free to re-hydrate your yeast.

Do this by boiling some water and letting it cool. You can then add your yeast packet (or two!) to the water and let it begin to absorb – you shouldn’t do this too far apart from when it is time to pitch the yeast.

Cover and leave for about 15 minutes and then inspect. It should have begun to smell like you are making bread and 'bubbled' a bit (see the above picture). If so, it’s ready to be pitched.

Once you've added the yeast to the wort, there will likely be some left in the glass - I have a 'waste not want not' kind of view so I add some water to the glass, give it a swirl and add it to the yeast as well.

If there is no churning or foaming or sourdough or bread like smells, it could be your yeast has died from old age or environmental damage such as being left in the sun.

You may need to use a new packet of yeast...

How many packets of yeast should I use?

Generally speaking, brewers will use one packet of yeast however if you a trying to make a very high-alcohol beer where the yeast is expected to do a lot of work, you might want to consider using two packets - this works well when brewing with two kit cans.

You may want to use two packets if your yeast is fairly old as the older it is, the less potency the yeast will have as the yeast cells will have slowly died off over time.

The 'denser' or thicker your wort, the more yeast you will need.

There's also a difference when making an ale or lager. Yeast becomes slow to ferment when it’s cold. Given lager ferments at a much lower temperature than ale, it's reasonable then to use more yeast with the lager to finish the job properly.

Some brewers use the rule of thumb to pitch about twice as much yeast for a lager as for an ale.

Using liquid yeast for brewing

If you intend to use a liquid yeast it should really be pitched to a starter wort before THEN pitching to the main wort in the fermenter. Here's a handy guide to making the starter from one of the true industry legends, John Palmer. 

That said, many liquid yeasts can simply be pitched as normal so check the instructions that come with your unit.

What are some good yeasts to brew with?

If you do not wish to use the yeast that comes with the beer kit you have, you could try what a gabillion brewers use, the American ale yeast, Safale -05. I've used it personally and it goes great guns and is tried and true.

The Safale - 04 is a handy English ale yeast too.

A quick summary of pitching yeast 

• Pitching yeast is simply adding it to the beer wort.
• Add it when your wort is the recommended temperature – check your beer kit’s recommended temperature.
• You can pitch dry yeast straight into the wort.
• Or you can add it to water just prior to pitching.
• Dry yeasts have a longer storage life than liquid yeasts. 
• Liquid yeasts must be stored by refrigeration means.
• The older the yeast, the more of it you will need to use. 
• You can even use baker's yeast to pitch into your beer!

Extra for experts: should you use a ph Meter?

Image credit to Justin Knabb via Creative Commons Licence

1 comment alcohol, home brew, john palmer, pitching yeast, wort, yeast

The Benefits of Ladybugs on Hops Plants: Natural Pest Control and Plant Health

Ladybugs, also known as ladybirds, are not just charming insects with their vibrant colors and distinct spots; they also provide numerous benefits to gardeners and farmers. When it comes to hops plants, having ladybugs present can significantly contribute to the health and productivity of these plants that make beer taste bloody amazing!

We will explore the advantages of ladybugs on hops plants, focusing on their role in natural pest control and plant health. Additionally, we will provide some tips on how to encourage ladybugs to visit and thrive in your hop garden.

Natural Pest Control

Ladybugs are voracious predators that feed on various pests, making them valuable allies in managing insect populations in hop gardens. Aphids, in particular, are a common threat to hops plants, as they can cause significant damage and reduce crop yields. Ladybugs have a strong appetite for aphids and can consume large numbers of these pests, helping to keep their populations in check without the need for chemical insecticides.

Ladybugs are attracted to hops plants infested with aphids by the scent of the aphid secretions. Once they arrive, they use their keen sense of smell to locate aphid colonies on the leaves and stems of the hops plants. Ladybugs are equipped with strong mandibles and a specialized mouthpart that allows them to pierce and suck out the body fluids of their prey. A single ladybug can consume dozens of aphids in a day, effectively reducing their numbers and preventing further damage to the hops plants.

The benefits of ladybugs extend beyond aphids. They also prey on other common pests that can infest hops plants, such as spider mites, whiteflies, scale insects, and mealybugs. By keeping these populations in check, ladybugs contribute to the overall health and vitality of the hops plants. Additionally, ladybugs are indiscriminate feeders, meaning they will consume both pest insects and their eggs, further curbing future infestations.

Ecosystem Balance

Ladybugs play a vital role in maintaining the balance of ecosystems. They are a part of the intricate web of predator-prey relationships that exist in nature. By encouraging ladybugs to inhabit your hop garden, you are fostering a diverse and resilient ecosystem. These beneficial insects not only control pests but also serve as a food source for other creatures, including birds.

By providing a habitat that attracts ladybugs, you create an environment that supports a rich diversity of beneficial insects and wildlife. Ladybugs will lay their eggs near a food source, such as aphid colonies, ensuring a future generation of pest controllers in your garden. The larvae of ladybugs, which emerge from these eggs, are equally voracious predators and can consume a large number of pests during their development.

Birds, such as swallows and chickadees (North America), are attracted to gardens abundant in ladybugs and their larvae. These birds feed on ladybugs and help control their populations while adding an additional layer of pest management. A healthy ecosystem contributes to the overall well-being of your hop plants, making them more resistant to diseases and creating a sustainable environment for long-term growth.

Tips to Encourage Ladybugs on Hops Plant

Plant a variety of flowers: Ladybugs are attracted to flowers that provide nectar and pollen, which serve as essential food sources. Planting a diverse range of flowers, such as daisies, marigolds, yarrow, and fennel, near your hops plants can help attract ladybugs to your garden. These flowers not only provide sustenance for the adult ladybugs but also serve as a habitat for other beneficial insects, creating a favorable environment for these predators.

Avoid pesticide use: Pesticides, even those intended for other pests, can harm ladybugs and disrupt the natural balance of your garden. Minimize or eliminate the use of chemical insecticides to create a safe and welcoming environment for ladybugs. Instead, explore organic and natural pest control methods, such as insecticidal soaps or neem oil, which are less harmful to beneficial insects like ladybugs.

Provide shelter: Ladybugs seek shelter during periods of bad weather or when they're not actively feeding. Consider creating ladybug houses or leaving undisturbed areas, such as tall grass or leaf litter, near your hops plants to provide them with suitable hiding spots. Ladybug houses can be constructed using materials such as wooden boxes or bundles of hollow stems, providing a safe refuge for ladybugs during adverse conditions.

Limit ant populations: Ants protect aphids from ladybug predation, as they "farm" aphids for their honeydew. Controlling ant populations in your garden can help prevent them from interfering with ladybug activities. Use ant baits or natural deterrents like diatomaceous earth to discourage ants from colonizing your hops plants.

Water source: Ladybugs need access to water for drinking and reproduction. Place shallow dishes or saucers with water near your hops plants to provide them with a reliable water source. You can also incorporate a small water feature, such as a birdbath or a decorative pond, in your garden to attract ladybugs and other beneficial insects.

Conclusion:

Ladybugs are beneficial insects that bring multiple advantages to hops plants, including natural pest control and ecosystem balance. By attracting and encouraging ladybugs in your hop garden, you can minimize the need for chemical interventions, promote plant health, and create a sustainable environment. Incorporating the tips mentioned above will help make your hops plants a welcoming haven for these helpful insects, ensuring a thriving garden that yields bountiful and healthy hops crops.

Image Source: Reddit

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>> How to choose the best brewing kettle (hint: go big)

"You're gonna need a bigger boat"

That was the classic line Brody uttered in Jaws once he saw how large the shark was.

All grain brewing itself is a bit of a giant shark but instead of a boat, you're gonna need a bigger brewing kettle. Of course, malts kit brewings with speciality grains benefit from a kettle too!

Things to consider when buying a brew kettle

• There are several benefits to having a brew kettle (or brew pot) that's large in size. The obvious one is that you can brew more beer! There's also less risk of a boilover or overflow occurring.
• If you want to do small batches of beer, you obviously don't need a massive 15 gallon kettle. However, once you get the taste for brewing, you may just find that 5 gallons just doesn't do it for you anymore, and you want to make 12 gallons - so you'll need that bigger kettle. You can always fry a turkey in it for Thanksgiving too!
• You may want to consider having a built-in thermometer as that can save you some hassle. 
• A ball valve is almost essential. Stainless steel ball valves are used on your kettle to allow you to control the flow of your liquids during transfers. If you have the budget for it, we strongly recommend you get a brew pot which features the valve. They give you so much control and are easy to strip down and clean. 
• A 'sight glass' which allows you to check the level of wort in your kettle. As the wort evaporates due to the boil, it's handy to keep your eye on the level without having to take the lid of the kettle. If you do not have a sight glass, fear not. Crafty brewers have many tricks up their sleeve and having a wooden rod or spoon with marks for the desired wort levels is one of them.



Dip Tube

• Some kettles come with a dip tube or pick up tube as they are known. These devices are used to extract the wort that lies below the ball valve, which makes for a more efficient collection of wort. These are often used with a hops screen which is used to filter out lumps and bumps from the wort.

And with that said, here's a selection of the best brewing kettles that we think cut the mustard that will do you really good service on brewing day.

Bayou Classic 800-416 16 Gallon Stainless Steel 6 Piece Brew Kettle

The Bayou Classic gas burner is one of Amazon's most popular sellers and that's because it is one of the best on the market. This is the same reason Bayou's gas burner is a big seller.

This unit is designed for the serious all-grain home brewer. The kettle features a tri-ply bottom and includes a domed lid, stainless spigot with Ball Valve, side-mount 3-inch Brew Thermometer ranging 60-220 degrees, stainless false bottom that sets 3.25 Inch above the bottom of the pot, and a tube shaped filter screen.

The bulkhead fittings enable easy attachment of thermometer and spigot for a water-tight seal. Side calibration measuring in gallon and quart that read from the inside of the kettle, enabling more accurate water level setting. 

The try-ply bottom promotes even heating and helps prevent against scorching, while the all stainless construction has no interaction with wort or acids. 

The narrow diameter and high side walls reduce the chance of boil overs, and the false bottom fits tightly on the low side indention to reduce particles and grain from entering the spigot chamber.

Here's some reviews from actual users of the Bayou:

"Kettle is very nice. Polished and huge. It's hard to imagine how large a 16gal kettle is until you get it. It's a monster. The included accessories make this a very versatile kettle. I am using mine as a boil kettle right now but plan on buying another in the future to use as an upgrade to my Mash Ton from a cooler."

"This is a quality kettle, and a decent price. I use it in tandem with a standard size keggle for my HLT, and can brew up to 15 gallons at a time if I feel incredibly strong and dedicated (15 gallons of wort weighs a lot). The thermometer works well, and has clear markings for various mash stages, if you do more than a single-step infusion."

"Great brew kettle. Very large with a tri-ply bottom. Have used it twice for brewing in a bag, thus far. Will hold a large grain bill - 16 lbs for me on my last brew. Screen will clog up, but not so much to not allow me to drain into the fermenter. Temp gauge required no calibration upon cross measuring. I did leave the kettle outside for a few days by accident and was pleased to see no signs of rust."

"The kettle held my mash at temp for the full hour, was easy to clean up and easy to transfer the wort to the boil kettle."

Check out the price on Amazon

Tall Boy Home Brewing Kettle Stainless Steel Stock Pot

If you are looking for something with a more modest budget or lower value, you'll need to dispense with the thrills and spills of the Blichman and for your stock standard steel pot, And the 8 gallon Tall Boy does just that. 

This means you will be limited to a 5 gallon brew, which to be fair, is a pretty standard brew. 

• Made specifically for home brewing
• Height to diameter ratio of 1.2:1 optimizes boil performance
• Reduces evaporative losses
• 4mm thick tri-clad bottom designed to stop bullets and prevent scorching by encouraging heat dispersion.
• Perfect for boiling 5 to 6 gallons of wort
• Made by the reputable Northern Brewer company (check out their wort chillers).
• Can use it to deep-fry turkey!

Here's what some genuine users of the Tall Boy have said in their Amazon reviews.

"BUILT FORD TOUGH! Seriously though, this thing is made like a tank everywhere and I love it, well worth the money!"

"Awesome. Thick bottom. Used to deep fry my 25 pound Thanksgiving turkey. Heated great no burnt crud on the bottom and easy clean up because nothing burned."

"Really good quality! Nice riveted and welded handles, extra thick bottom, strong sides, and is just the right size for a 5 gallon brew. If you're doing a full 5 gal, be careful during the hot break, as the wort level is pretty close to the top. Stand guard at the gas valve! Excellent product, cleans well, and can also do a turkey or a beach boil. Get it!"

"I've brewed with it a few times now and it works great. I think it would be better if it had some volume markings."

Check out the price of the Tall Boy on Amazon - it comes with free shipping.

Northern Brewer's MegaPot 1.2 - its a handy beer maker

Northernbrewer brag that their MegaPot 1.2 "is a masterpiece, not just another steel pot.".

Apparently crafted of stainless steel for ease of cleaning. The unit features silicone handles on the kettle and lid serves to limit scorching.

The handles are riveted in place to aid in lifting a hot liquid-filled pot.  Northern Brewer claims that there will be no weld failures.

The heart of the kettle is a 4mm thick Tri-Clad bottom- made specifically for even heat distribution.

The 1.2 proportion of MegaPot has been scientifically designed to promote a vigorous boil and reduce off-flavors.

• 10 Gallon (40 quarts / 37.8 liters) capacity
• 4mm Tri-Clad Bottom. All Stainless Steel Construction
• Graduated Volume Markings inside the kettle
• Silicone Covered Handles for Safety
• Weld-less Ball Valve Assembly and Weld-less Thermometer
• 14.1 Inches in Diameter and 16.3 Inches in Height
• Available in 8, 10, 15, 20, and 30 gallon sizes, with or without ball valve and thermometer.

Here's what some geezers who have actually made wort with the kettle had to say about its performance:

"This pot has performed well during both batches I've made so far. The bottom of the pot is as solid as they say, about 4mm thick. No issues on a glass stove. The thermometer and spigot need to be assembled, but again, it wasn't hard to do and it hasn't leaked at all. It's nice to have a good sturdy pot for brewing."

"This kettle is everything I hoped it would be, and much more. The construction feels rock-solid, and all the elements of the pot, including the accessories that came with it (ball valve and thermometer), are first class. This is a pot meant to last a lifetime, and I feel it was money well spent for the long haul. After running my first batch with this pot over yesterday, it passed all my quality tests, and I am delighted with my purchase."

"This thing is very heavy duty, has a thick clad bottom for heat distribution, thick walls and also has very useful gallon markings on the inside of the pot where you can easily look at the liquid level and know your volume. Nice heavy lid, rubber grips, and heavy-duty ball valve included. This is a very high quality product."

What are you waiting for? With free shipping, you should check out the price on Amazon.

Blichmann Gas Boilermaker G2 Brew Kettle

This beast from Blichmann Engineering almost makes boiling up a wort too easy!

The BoilerMaker™G2 brew kettles have been completely redesigned from the ground up with world-class American engineering and quality US manufacturing! 

Bare bones kettles might lure you in with attractive prices but by the time you add extra equipment you need or want – all standard in the BoilerMaker G2 comes into its own.

All models carry a limited lifetime warranty and are available in Celsius or Fahrenheit models. 

Blichmann Engineering boasts that this fresh design reflects the passion they have for quality, ergonomics, aesthetics, performance, and simplicity.

The boilermaker features:

• Heavy gauge, 304 single piece, deep drawn, weld-free American made construction
• Made in America from high-quality US stainless steel, single-piece seamless construction, and 100% US labor.
• Patent pending G2 linear flow valve allows you to easily fine tune your flow rate
• A sleek brush finish to hide finger-prints and water stains
• High-impact glass-filled nylon handles are extremely durable, high temperature resistant, comfortable, and cool to the touch.
• Exclusive snap-in dip tube design installs without tools and drains to within 3/8” of the bottom of the kettle!
• Includes adjustable viewing angle BrewMometer with unique, patented, brewing dial face 
• Comes in 7.5, 10, 15 or 20 gallon size.

Don't take Blichman's word about there product alone, check out what actual reviewers on Amazon have said about the kettle:

"The design of the kettle is fantastic. Great lids, handles, and I love the sight glass. Makes it really easy to clean it.

"Only con is if you plan on using this on gas. My use is electric. The bottom doesn't have a nice thick plate in it, it is just as thick as the sides. This will cause it to heat up more slowly on gas. For the price I would expect it to be included but for me on electric it is actually a plus as it makes it easier to move the kettles around."

"I think my old 15G kettle is heavier than this 20G Blichmann one."

Check out the price on Amazon - these units have free shipping! Pair it with Blichmann's propane gas burner and you'll have your wort boiled in no time.

Should you buy Aluminium or steel? 

Brew kettles come in both metal forms, each having its own benefit.

Aluminum is lighter for example but is less durable than steel kettles.

They also need to be maintained well due to ensure that the oxide layer that forms is not broken. This is because the layer prevents the aluminum from passing off-flavours into the wort or mash.

While aluminum kettles will transfer heat faster than steal, if you have a really good gas burner, this shouldn't really be a concern with your buying decision.

In our realm, we recommend you go for the steel kettle - the only drawback is they are more expensive than aluminum units.

Stainless steel is also fairly easy to clean. The choice is yours, Captain!

What is the best way to clean a brew kettle?

The gunk that is left at the bottom of the kettle is called the trub and it's usually quite manageable to get off. Many brewers like to soak the trub in water with Powdered Brewery Wash (AKA PBW).

Do not use steel wool or anything sharp to clean the unit, use something soft like a non-abrasive sponge or a soft plastic brush. You are trying to avoid putting scratches in the steel! 

A bit of elbow grease is all you really need!

It's also good to clean your kettle as soon as you can after brewing - this will give the trub less time to harden and should ensure a straightforward cleaning job.

If you have an aluminium kettle, you'll want to avoid anything caustic and stick with ordinary washing detergent.

I personally dispose of the trub on my vegetable garden!

Finally, once you have chosen your kettle and brewed with it, you'll need to keep an eye out for beerstone, which is a calcium based build up which can harbor microorganisms that will ruin your beer.

Brew day safety tips

Once that wort has been boiled, you've now got to cool it down so you can pitch the yeast - but what you've done is heated many gallons of water so hot it can give you a terrible scalding. So be careful!

Ensure your setup is sturdy. Your burner needs to be flat and properly assembled. Your kettle should have handles (ones coated with silicon are perfect) to assist with moving. Even so, you may want to consider using an oven mitt and a waterproof apron.

This is especially so if you are deep frying a Thanksgiving day turkey with oil.

And shoes, wear shoes!

And finally, be wary of any children around your setup. Frankly, we recommend you let the kids stay inside and watch Star Wars while you have the gas going!

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Guide to making Feijoa Wine

Feijoa wine is a delightful and unique beverage crafted from the aromatic and tangy feijoa fruit. With its distinctive flavor profile and a hint of tropical sweetness, feijoa wine offers a refreshing and enjoyable experience for wine enthusiasts. The wine captures the essence of the feijoa, balancing its natural flavors with the fermentation process to create a delightful libation.

Making wine at home brings a host of benefits and a sense of satisfaction that cannot be replicated by store-bought options. By embarking on the journey of crafting your own feijoa wine, you have the opportunity to express your creativity and personalize the flavors according to your preferences. The process allows you to gain a deeper understanding of winemaking techniques, while also fostering a stronger connection to the ingredients and the final product. Additionally, sharing your homemade feijoa wine with friends and family can be a source of pride and joy.

Ingredients and Equipment

To make feijoa wine, you will need the following ingredients:

• Feijoas: Select ripe and flavorful feijoas, preferably organically grown for the best results.
• Sugar: Used to provide the necessary fermentable sugars for the yeast to convert into alcohol.
• Yeast: Choose a wine yeast suitable for fruit wines to ensure a proper fermentation process.
• Clean Water: Used as the base for the wine and to dilute the feijoa pulp.

In addition to the ingredients, you may need the following equipment:

1. Fermentation vessel: A food-grade vessel, such as a glass carboy or a plastic fermenter, to hold the wine during fermentation.
2. Airlock: This device allows carbon dioxide to escape during fermentation while preventing oxygen and contaminants from entering.
3. Siphoning tube: Used for transferring the wine between vessels while minimizing oxygen exposure.
4. Hydrometer: A tool for measuring the specific gravity of the wine at different stages of fermentation.
5. Sanitizing solution: Essential for sterilizing all equipment to prevent contamination by unwanted microorganisms.
6. Bottles and corks: Used for storing the finished feijoa wine. Choose wine bottles that can be securely sealed with quality corks.

By gathering these ingredients and equipment, you'll be well-prepared to begin the exciting journey of making feijoa wine at home.

Preparation

Selecting ripe and flavorful feijoas is crucial to ensure the best quality and taste in your feijoa wine. Here's why it's important:

Feijoas that are fully ripe will offer the best balance of flavors, sweetness, and acidity. Look for fruits that are slightly soft to the touch and have a pleasant fragrance. Avoid using overly ripe or underripe feijoas, as they may affect the overall taste of the wine.

Before beginning the winemaking process, it is essential to clean and sanitize all equipment thoroughly. This step is crucial to prevent the growth of unwanted bacteria or wild yeasts that could negatively impact the wine's flavor and quality. Follow these steps for cleaning and sanitizing your equipment:

1. Start by washing all equipment, including the fermentation vessel, airlock, siphoning tube, hydrometer, bottles, and corks, with warm water and a mild detergent. Use a brush or sponge to remove any visible dirt or residue.

2. Rinse the equipment thoroughly to ensure no detergent or soap residue remains.

3. Prepare a sanitizing solution by following the instructions provided with the chosen sanitizer. Common sanitizing agents include metabisulfite, bleach, or a commercial brewing sanitizer.

4. Submerge all equipment in the sanitizing solution, ensuring that they are fully covered. Allow them to soak for the recommended amount of time specified by the sanitizer's instructions.

5. After sanitizing, rinse the equipment with clean, cold water. Avoid touching the sanitized surfaces with your hands or any non-sanitized objects.

Now that the equipment is clean and sanitized, you can proceed with washing and preparing the feijoas for winemaking. Follow these steps:

1. Start by rinsing the feijoas under cool running water to remove any dirt or debris.

2. Once cleaned, remove the skin from the feijoas. This can be done by cutting off the stem end and gently peeling the skin away with a paring knife or your fingers. Alternatively, you can scoop out the pulp from the skin using a spoon.

3. After peeling, chop the feijoas into small pieces, roughly 1 to 2 centimeters in size. This will facilitate the extraction of flavors during the fermentation process. Remove any tough or woody parts, as they can affect the texture and taste of the wine.

Making wine or beer is like painting, most of the work is in the preparation so we strongly urge you to follow sensible santitization practices - there's nothing worse than checking on a batch or brew to find it spoiled. It's simply a waste of your time and money if you do not clean and sterilize equipment!

Fermentation

The fermentation process is where the magic happens, as the yeast converts the sugars in the feijoas into alcohol. Follow these steps to ensure a successful fermentation:


1. Mashing the feijoas: Place the chopped feijoas into a sanitized container and mash them using a sanitized utensil, such as a potato masher or a sanitized gloved hand. This step helps release the juices and flavors from the fruit.

2. Adding sugar and water to the fermentation vessel: Transfer the mashed feijoas into a sanitized fermentation vessel, then add the required amount of sugar and water. The sugar provides the necessary fuel for yeast fermentation. The amount of sugar required will depend on the desired sweetness and alcohol content of the wine. Refer to a feijoa wine recipe or use a hydrometer to measure the specific gravity and adjust the sugar accordingly.

3. Mixing the ingredients well: Stir the mixture thoroughly to dissolve the sugar and ensure even distribution of the feijoa pulp. This helps kickstart the fermentation process and promotes yeast activity.

4. Adding yeast and stirring: Sprinkle the wine yeast over the surface of the mixture. Give it a gentle stir to incorporate the yeast into the liquid. This initiates fermentation by introducing the yeast that will convert the sugars into alcohol.

5. Sealing the vessel with an airlock: Attach a sanitized airlock to the fermentation vessel according to the manufacturer's instructions. The airlock allows carbon dioxide to escape while preventing oxygen and contaminants from entering. Place the vessel in a cool, dark area with a stable temperature.

Ideal temperature and conditions for fermentation:

The ideal temperature for feijoa wine fermentation is generally between 18°C and 24°C (64°F and 75°F). Avoid exposing the fermentation vessel to extreme temperature fluctuations or direct sunlight, as these factors can affect the fermentation process and the quality of the wine. Aim for a consistent temperature throughout the fermentation period.

Monitoring the fermentation process:

During fermentation, it's important to monitor the progress regularly. Here are a few key points to keep in mind:

- Check the airlock: The airlock should show signs of fermentation within the first 24 to 48 hours, such as bubbles or movement in the airlock. This indicates that the yeast is active.

- Take hydrometer readings: Use a sanitized hydrometer to measure the specific gravity of the wine. Take readings periodically to track the fermentation progress. As fermentation continues, the specific gravity will decrease, indicating that the sugar is being converted into alcohol.

- Observe the aroma and appearance: Throughout fermentation, pay attention to any unusual odors or off-putting aromas. Additionally, monitor the color and clarity of the liquid, as these can indicate the progress of fermentation.

Duration of fermentation and signs of completion:

Feijoa wine fermentation typically lasts for around 2 to 4 weeks, but it can vary depending on various factors, such as temperature and yeast activity. Signs of completion include a stable specific gravity reading over several days, no visible fermentation activity in the airlock, and a clearer appearance. Once fermentation is complete, the wine is ready for the next steps, such as racking and aging.

What is the best yeast to use to make feijoa wine?

When making feijoa wine, it is recommended to use a wine yeast specifically formulated for fruit wines. While there are various types of wine yeast available, certain strains are better suited for fermenting fruit-based wines, including feijoa wine. Two popular choices are Lalvin EC-1118 (also known as Prise de Mousse) and Lalvin QA23.

Lalvin EC-1118 is a champagne yeast known for its ability to tolerate a wide range of temperatures and produce a clean, neutral fermentation. It has a strong fermentation capacity and is well-suited for fruit wines, including feijoa wine. This yeast can help ensure a complete fermentation and produce a dry wine with a crisp character.

Lalvin QA23 is another excellent option for making feijoa wine. It is known for its low nutrient requirements and ability to enhance fruit flavors. QA23 can contribute to the development of pleasant aromas and help preserve the natural characteristics of the feijoas. This yeast strain is often chosen for white wines and fruit wines, including those made with feijoas.

Both Lalvin EC-1118 and Lalvin QA23 are reliable choices for feijoa wine, but the final selection depends on personal preference and desired outcomes. Other wine yeast strains suitable for fruit wines may also be available, so it's worth exploring different options and consulting with local winemaking suppliers or enthusiasts for recommendations specific to your region and the available yeast strains.

Racking and Aging

Racking is an essential step in winemaking that involves transferring the wine from one vessel to another, leaving behind sediment and clarifying the wine. Here's what you need to know:

Process of racking:

1. Prepare a clean and sanitized secondary fermentation vessel. This can be another fermentation vessel or a carboy.

2. Gently siphon the feijoa wine from the primary fermentation vessel into the secondary vessel. The siphoning tube should reach near the bottom of the vessel to minimize oxygen exposure.

3. As you transfer the wine, be cautious not to disturb the sediment at the bottom. This sediment consists of yeast, fruit solids, and other particles that have settled during fermentation.

4. Once the wine has been successfully racked, attach a sanitized airlock to the secondary vessel.

Purpose of racking and its importance in clarifying the wine:

Racking serves two primary purposes: clarifying the wine and separating it from the sediment. During fermentation, solids and suspended particles settle at the bottom of the vessel, clouding the wine. Racking helps remove these impurities, resulting in a clearer and more visually appealing wine. Additionally, it reduces the risk of off-flavors caused by extended contact with the sediment.

Instructions for racking the wine and leaving behind sediment:

To rack the wine while leaving behind sediment:

1. Place the primary fermentation vessel on a stable surface and ensure it is higher than the secondary vessel.

2. Insert the sanitized siphoning tube into the wine, making sure it reaches below the surface but does not touch the sediment at the bottom.

3. Start the siphoning process by either using a gravity siphon or by gently sucking on the tube to initiate the flow. Be careful not to introduce any contaminants into the wine.

4. Direct the flow of wine into the secondary vessel, gradually raising the primary vessel if needed to maintain the siphoning process.

5. Monitor the process and stop siphoning when you notice the sediment approaching the tube's opening. This ensures that only the clarified wine is transferred.

What's the best time and way to store feijoa wine?

Aging feijoa wine allows it to develop and refine its flavors, aromas, and overall character. During this period, the wine undergoes chemical changes that contribute to its complexity and smoothness. While feijoa wine can be enjoyed relatively young, aging it can enhance its taste and texture.

The recommended aging period for feijoa wine can range from 6 months to 2 years, depending on personal preference and the wine's initial qualities. Generally, a minimum of 6 months is recommended to allow the flavors to meld and mellow. Longer aging periods can lead to further refinement and complexity.

Storage conditions for aging:

To properly age feijoa wine, consider the following storage conditions:

1. Temperature: Store the wine in a cool and stable environment, ideally between 12°C and 16°C (54°F and 61°F). Avoid temperature fluctuations, as they can affect the aging process and the wine's quality.

2. Light exposure: Keep the wine away from direct sunlight or strong artificial light, as UV rays can degrade the wine and negatively impact its flavors.

3. Humidity: Maintain a moderate level of humidity, around 60-70%, to prevent the corks from drying out and compromising the wine's seal.

4. Positioning: Store the bottles horizontally to keep the corks moist, ensuring a proper seal and minimizing the risk of oxidation.

By racking the wine and allowing it to age under appropriate conditions, you can enjoy the benefits of a clearer and more refined feijoa wine with enhanced flavors and aromas.

The maturation time for feijoa wine can vary depending on various factors, including personal preference, the wine's initial qualities, and the aging period it has already undergone. As a general guideline, it is recommended to allow the wine to mature for at least 3 to 6 months after bottling before consumption.

Making feijoa wine at home involves several steps, starting with the selection of ripe feijoas and the cleaning and sanitization of equipment. The feijoas are then prepared by removing the skin and chopping the fruit. The fermentation process begins by mashing the feijoas, adding sugar and water, and introducing yeast. The wine ferments in a controlled environment, and once fermentation is complete, it can be racked to clarify and separate it from sediment. The wine is aged in suitable conditions before being bottled and allowed to settle further. Finally, after a suitable maturation period, the feijoa wine is ready to be enjoyed.


Here are some final tips for achieving the best results:


1. Quality ingredients: Use ripe and flavorful feijoas to ensure the best taste in your wine.

2. Proper sanitation: Clean and sanitize all equipment thoroughly to prevent contamination.

3. Temperature control: Maintain a stable and appropriate fermentation temperature for optimal yeast activity.

4. Patience: Allow the wine to undergo the necessary stages of fermentation, racking, and aging. Good things come to those who wait!

5. Storage conditions: Store the bottled wine in a cool, dark, and stable environment to preserve its quality.

Keen to make some parsnip wine?

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